The Gentleman Gourmand

sharing the best food around

Month: July 2004 (Page 3 of 4)

Must…have….waffle house……graghhh…….

For those of you not familiar with the term Waffle House, let me explain. Waffle House is the place people go after 2 AM when you have been out all night, and need some good down south greasy food. The food isn’t classy, but damn, it’s good. They even have the best fountain coke anywhere, ever.

I always order one of two things. I either get a triple order of their famous hash browns (the shredded, not the cubed kind), scattered, smothered, covered and chunked. (For those of you not down with the lingo, thats smothered with onions, covered with cheese, and chunked with ham.)

If I don’t get that, I get the Texas Cheesesteak Plate (Texas cause they use good, thick Texas toast, which soaks up all that good grease), and a double order of hash browns, in the same fashion as I get in my triple order.

Always with a Coke. And a smile.

Now, Waffle House servers are a tricky bunch. Sometimes young college girls lookin to make some money, but usually it’s older, black women who call ya “suga” and “hun” and are quick with their wit. More than once I have had servers who not only knew my name, and my order, but would also know exactly what was goin on with me. “Hey there hun, looks like you’ve had a rough night. Here, lemme getcha yah Coke.”

It’s the best.

Did I mention that it’s dirt cheap?

texas-cheesesteak

And amazingly delicious?

cheesesteakplate

NOTE: Do not, under any circumstance, use the mayonnaise that they give you. It is there so they know what your order is, NOT to consume.

Aceto Balsamico di “Addictivo”

I have become hopelessly addicted to Balsamic Vinegar.

It started a few years ago, mopping it up with bread. Then I moved on to eating the really good stuff on parmigiano cheese. Then, when we took a trip to Italy last summer, I bought damn near $200 worth, including the $1 / MILILITER “Aceto Balsamico Traditional di Modena Extra Vecchio.” That literally translates to: “Liquid Crack.”

This summer, I must have consumed damn near a bottle by myself. This stuff is dangerous, though, I could be addicted to worse things. I feel that this is a healthier addiction than one to, say, mayonnaise.

balsamico

See that liquid running down the bottle? It’s my tears. Balsamic tears for the empty vessel.

Jager.

So, I always associated Jagermeister with drunk college kids and Jagerbombs.

jager

Evidently, it’s a respectable drink.

I had been wondering why the castle stocked Jager; I couldn’t really picture any of the 30+ year old customers of our getting tanked off shots of Jager while enjoying the beautiful scenery.

Tonight, someone ordered Jager as an digestivo, while others ordered limoncello and espresso.

I was thoroughly boggled.

The Whole Family….The Restaurant

Now, I know this is not a new thing. “Mom ‘n Pops” places have been around forever. The thing is, I’ve never worked in one.

Donatella is the chef. You know that. Her husband, Luca, helps run the castle. What you may not know, is that half the staff is in their family.

Donatella’s sister, Bianca, is at the castle almost every afternoon. When the restaurant gets busy, her daughter comes in.

When we get ~really~ busy (read: 8-20 people), Donatella’s father and mother come in. So, on any giver night, we could have Donatella, her sister, her niece, her mother and her father, all in the same kitchen.

Let me put this simply. I could never do that.

(And while I’m sort of on the subject, I sort of miss the days that I worked in restaurants that served 100-250 every night. Here, hustling is “ohmygod 3 tables just sat down at once!!!” Not that thats a bad thing, but chaos can be kinda fun, sometimes.)

On that note…I bring you: Uni!

Since I’m posting old food reviews, heres another one for you.

Uni
The Eliot Hotel
370A Commonwealth Ave. (Massachusetts Ave.)
Boston, MA 02215
617-536-7200
Rating: ♠♠♠♠♠ (out of 5)
Cost: $$$$ ($60+)

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Soto, an old review with new info.

I wrote this review about Soto long ago, just after they closed:

——————–

This is the sushi timeline of the Baber family:
Growing up in Atlanta, my loving parents taught me to enjoy sushi at an early age at the (at the time) far away Hasaguchi restaurant. We then moved to Hasaguchi Junior, when it arrived at Lenox, and we stayed there for a while.

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About The Gentleman Gourmand

I decided it would be a good idea to give those of you who don’t know me a rundown on my history. I ended up writing this for my introduction to eGullet, and thought I would do well to post it here.

I started off in the big culinary world of ours in Telluride, Colorado, at a summer camp for years ago. They were offering a class on cooking at a local Thai restaurant, run by Chef Michael Guskea.

I was the oldest in the group, and ended up doing much of the hands-on work. The next summer I worked with Chef Guskea both teaching the class, and helping him with his catering work, which I greatly enjoyed. (The highlight of that being a 150 person dinner, buffet style, at the $45 million dollar house of one of the founders of Dell. Michael and I cooked and served all of the food, just the two of us.)

After that, I landed an internship at Kyma, the Greek restaurant of the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group in Atlanta, my hometown. I worked there Saturdays, getting a feel for how larger, upper scale restaurants functioned. I loved the family feel that I got from there, as well as the intense focus on the food. (They had me picking the yellow leaves out of the arugula IN the walk-in. 3 cases worth. It took me 2 hours, with the cooling unit blowing down the back of my neck the whole time. Yeah, I know…but I was making my bones!) One of the most rewarding things I got out of the internship was a good relationship with Pano Karatassos, who was previously employed at The French Laundry. (And it’s clear he gets much of his work ethic from there. If anything, and I do mean anything, was spilled, you would have to stop what you were doing and clean it all up. Water on the floor? Get a mop.)

After that, I took another internship at Nikolais Roof, the French/Russian restaurant at the top of the Hilton Atlanta. Chef Klapdohr turned out to be one of the nicest people I have ever met, and continues to ask the General Manager (the father of a friend of mine) how I am doing. (Yeah, I know, real hard to get the internship knowing the GM, but eh, gotta pull some strings now and then.) At Nikolais, I really learned appreciation for quality ingredients, and the techniques for keeping food waste down. (I also saw some incredibly cool things. Evidently they had just discovered this new crustacean thing in the Pacific, and sent half a dozen of them to Nikolais to cook. It was kind of a half lobster, half horseshoe crab.)

When the big college decision came up, I considered culinary school. I applied to Johnson and Wales, and CIA, and got accepted to both, as well as a dozen other liberal arts colleges.

After much thought, I decided that year that although I loved cooking, I knew at heart that I could not be a chef. I really just don’t think I could dedicate my life to something so stressful and difficult. I still cook, but I know I will never run a restaurant.

I ended up attending Boston University’s School of Hospitality Administration, and am greatly enjoying it. This last year (my first there), was utterly amazing. They sent me all over the country to hospitality conferences (NYC, St. Louis, Anaheim) and all of my Hospitality related courses were the best I have ever taken. Of them, HF 100 was my favorite, not only because most of the information came almost intuitively to me, but also because my professor was so incredibly enthusiastic about teaching. My second favorite was probably HF 150, Intro to Cooking, which I will be a Teachers Assistant in next semester.

I am currently interning at il Castello di Poreta, in Italy. It is a small hotel / restaurant in the hills of Umbria, near Spoleto. I took Italian for my first two semesters, and am coming along slowly, but surely. I have been working in the kitchen, learning exceptional Italian cuisine from one of the best chefs in the area. This is about when the blog began.

Hopefully I’ll have the drive to keep it updated even when I get back to school to document all my foodie adventures in Boston!

Vongericterecten-who?

So lets face it, some of us from time to time butcher a chefs name for 6 months, then hear somebody pronounce it correctly and feel really dumb. Don’t worry, it has happend to all of us. So, I decided I wanted to compile a list of all the hard to pronounce (or easy to mis-pronounce) names out there.

I’ve got a thread going on ovet at eGullet about it, so I’ll try to keep it updated from time to time. Once I deem it finished, I’ll post a link on the side.

Here it is as of late:
Grant Achatz – ACK-ETZ
Ferran Adriá – feh rahn ah dree AH
Lidia Bastianich – lid ee ya bahs-TYAHN-itch
Mario Batali – bot tal ee
Richard Blais – Blaze
Paul Bocuse – pole boh-KOOZ
Daniel Boulud – dan-YELL boo-LOO
Tony Bourdain – boor dain
Michael Chiarello – kee ah rell oh
Tom Colicchio – Ko lick e o
Gary Danko – DANG-ko
Marcel Desaulniers – mar cell di sol ni yay
Georges Auguste Escoffier – jorgz oh goost ess coff ee ay
Yutake Ishinabe – Yew-tah-keh Ee-she-nah-beh
Steve Klc – Kelch
Chen Kenichi – Chen is self explanatory, Kenichi is Keh-nee-chee (note that Chen is his family name, and Kenichi is his given name)
Masahiko Kobe – Mah-sah-hee-koh Koh-bay
Emeril Lagasse – la gass ee
Rokusaburo Michiba – Rouk-sah-boo-roh Mee-chee-bah
Masaharu Morimoto – Mah-sah-hah-roo Moh-ree-moh-toe
Koumei Nakamura – Koh-may Nah-kah-moo-rah
Jacques Pepin – pep anne
Paul Prudhomme – proo-DOHM
Ruth Reichl – RYE-shul
Dale Reitzer – RITE-zer
Eric Ripert – eh-REEK ree-PAIR
Michael Ruhlman – ROOL-munn
Guy Savoy – Ghee Sav-wah
Hiroyuki Sakai – He-ROH-yew-KEY SAH-kai
Joachim Splichal – joe ah keem splee kahl
Charlie Trotter – trah tur
Jean Georges Vongerichten – VON-gehr-ICK-ten

22 Two’s – Jay-Z

NEWS FLASH: More people joining the fun remixes!

So, this is my attempt at being as cool as the Amateur Gourmet, what with his Thursday Night Dinner songs (but I’m not going to sing mine!).

This wont make sense unless you know Jay-Z – 22 Two’s. But, um, don’t download it illegally or anything.

Yeah Yeah Yeah Yeah
Can I Cook It?
<< Yes You Can >> Repeat 3x

Too Much Rump Roast Slop Slingin And Too Many Amateurs On A Mission
Doin Your Best GG Rendition
Too Many Rough Headwaiters I Got My Suspicions
That You’re Just Smilin To Pull Up Tips, Rookie, Listen
Too Many Bussers Wanna Be Servers So If You A Cook
I’ma Call You A Cook Too Many Grillers Are Shady
Too Many Purveyors Give These Kitchens Too Many Chances
Too Many Hosts Wannabe Captains Don’t Know What Finance Is
Too Many Barbacks Stuck Up From Too Many Alcohol Advances
No Question GG Got Too Many Answers
I Been Around This Shop Too Many Times
Stocked Too Much Prime Cooked Too Many Lines Too
To All My Preppers It Ain’t Too Late To Come Together
Cause Too Much Smack And Too Much Shove Equal Pink Paper
I Don’t Follow Any Guidelines Cause Too Many Folks Tried Mine
So I Change Styles Every Two Times Hah What The Duck.
That’s 22 Too’s For Y’all Bloggers Out There Yaknahmean
Shall I Continue To Cook It Out? What …

Tomato soup, eyeballed.

So, I had been emailing my mother (aww…) for one of the many tomato soup recipies that I love. What I finally realized is that tomato soup is whatever you want it to be. (gasp!)

Here’s the basic recipe I was given:

Barefoot Contessa roasted tomato-basil soup

3 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cut in half length wise
1/4 cup plus 2 T good EVOO
1 T good salt (I just noticed this now. How absurd is this? What the crap is “good” salt? Jeffrey Steingarten already put this issue to rest in his article about salt. All salt is NaCl. Once it dissolves in a liquid, it is all the same. The only difference between any salt is the size of the crystal and the other minerals that are connected to it (such as that pink salt from japan). Asking for “good” salt in a recipe that is going to be dissolved is silly.)
1 1/2 t. fresh ground pepper
2 cups finely chopped yellow onions (about 2 onions)
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 T unsalted butter
1/4 t crushed red pepper flakes
28 ounces canned plum tomatoes with their juice
4 cups fresh basil leaves, packed
1 t. fresh thyme leaves
1 quart chicken stock or water

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss together the tomatoes, 1/4 cup olive oil, salt and pepper. Spread the tomatoes in one layer on baking sheet and roast for about 45 minutes.

In an 8 qt. stockpot on med heat, saute the onions and garlic in 2 T of olive oil, butter and red pepper flakes, for 10 minutes, until onions begin to brown. Add canned tomatoes, basil, thyme and chicken stock. Add the oven-roasted tomatoes, including liquid on baking sheet. Bring to boil and simmer uncovered for about 40 minutes. Pass through a food mill fitted with the coarsest blade. Taste for further seasoning. Serve hot or cold.

Serves 6-8 (really great for summer–a lighter version with no heavy cream)

Then I decided, screw that. I’ve totally got good tomato sauce already. What else do I have?

I’ve got:
salt
pepper
oil
garlic IN oil Note: this is something I came across for the first time, here. What Donatella does is she takes garlic with the skin on and purees it, then lets it sit in oil, and keeps it that way. She only has to add a few drops to any dish to give it a distinct garlic flavor. What’s interesting about this, is she says that its really the skin that gives it a lot of potentcy. Once it has sat for a few days, all the garlic (including the skin) is completely edible. And tasty.)
onions
crushed red pepper
butter
cream
fresh basil

I don’t need anythin else!

So I got to work.

Step one: Saute as much garlic and onions as you like in some oil. Cut em however you like. If you like big pieces, go ahead. I like little cubes.

onionsgarlicpeppers

Note: I am a onion and garlic fiend. What you see in this picture is the amount I used for ONE portion. My friends know this. I know this. You may not know this. Now you do. (When I go to Publix and get a sub, they often run out of onions because I ask for so many. You might as well call it an onion sandwich, with some tasty condiments. Like meat.)

Once they’re translucent (not brown, I like em to have some crunch), add yer tomato sauce. I had just cooked some tomatoes in oil with a bit of dried mint (thats right. mint. wanna fight about it?) and had a big pot of it just sitting there, waiting, no, pleading with me to make him into soup. He (the soup) wanted it to have a real recipe so that I wouldn’t mess up. Boy did I prove him wrong.

soup2

Anyway, so you’ve got your onion, garlic, oil, tomato sauce mix now, right? Let it simmer for a bit, and taste it a couple times. Add some salt and pepper. How much did I add? Not sure, most of it got stuck to my fingers and I got annoyed with it. Somewhere in the neighborhood of “a pinch.”

So now, you could stop and say, screw all this fatty “butter and cream nonsense, I’m going to eat low fat foods and live to be 100!” Nonsense. Add the cream and the butter. It doesnt have to be a lot, just enough cream to make it lighter in color, and just enough butter to give it that great sheen.

souptwoandahalf

After that you’re pretty much done.

soup3

Grab some fresh basil. At first I didn’t chop mine up, and just stuck it in the center to “look pretty.” Then I decided I didn’t care whatsoever for it to “look pretty” and chopped it up. It looked decidedly prettier after I chopped it.

soupbasil

soupfinished

Once the executive board met to decide on the drink (meaning, me and the pot of tomato sauce), we came to a concensus of iced coffee, which I promptly made (dirtying about half a dozen more things in the process.)

soupcoffee

Ate I then did, promptly.

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